Installing Metal Threaded Inserts For Wood

15 Responses to “Installing Metal Threaded Inserts For Wood”

1. 

   MrLeonard55 says:

   September 17, 2011 at 12:22 pm

   Good video.
2. 

   framergp says:

   September 17, 2011 at 5:32 pm

   Yes, I was one of the dummies that thought that the slotted end was for a screw driver. Thanks for the great info. This will make it easier for me.
3. 

   n8guy says:

   September 19, 2011 at 10:41 am

   I’m not sure you’re correct about the slotted end, given the existence of the “E-Z LOK Drive Tool” (search Amazon for that part, as YouTube won’t let me link to it in the comments).
4. 

   RonaldWalters47 says:

   September 19, 2011 at 12:36 pm

   I first used threaded inserts 40 years ago. I used a screwdriver, occasionally screwed up the internal threads, they didn’t always go in very well. I had two suppliers tell me over 30 years ago I was installing them the wrong way. Since then I’ve had few problems, they cut a clean thread, don’t chew up the wood as bad.

   EZ LOK inserts are obviously made different. The slots don’t go to the OD and they appear to be thicker wall. If I used EZ LOK inserts I might consider their $14 tool.
5. 

   MaDeuce80 says:

   October 3, 2011 at 11:52 pm

   I just received the new Rockler catalog and it does state that the inserts easily install with a screw driver. I must say after seeing your video, I prefer your method. Nice job!!! Thanks from Chicago.
6. 

   milamili007 says:

   October 26, 2011 at 9:42 pm

   Thanks for a great video. And just in time for my own project, too. Keep up the good work. You’re very clear, no extra talk, just to the point — exactly what a how-to video should be done.
7. 

   n8guy says:

   October 30, 2011 at 1:21 pm

   @RonaldWalters47 You may be right, but all the information I see suggests that they are intended to be installed with a screwdriver or similar tool (notches out). Woodcraft could have gotten it wrong, but they specifically show a picture of their threaded inserts (not EZ LOK brand) installed notches out and explicitly state that you can install them with a screwdriver.
8. 

   klungoo says:

   November 9, 2011 at 2:38 pm

   Hey very nice video, well filmed and explained. I didn’t know how to properly instal these. THANKS
9. 

   s123a says:

   January 2, 2012 at 6:08 pm

   Cool i was one of those who thinks those cuts slots were for screwdriver hehe
10. 

    bradkrit says:

    January 23, 2012 at 11:17 am

    How much would you trust that to hold going into pine? I may need to put some in 45 degrees into the end grain of a board
11. 

    RonaldWalters47 says:

    January 23, 2012 at 4:56 pm

    When I said I haven’t had one pull out, I probably should have said, “within reason” or “in jigs and fixtures”. Pine is soft so I wouldn’t expect a lot of strength. End grain is even worse. Given enough load they will tear out. You could experiment with running two in together on the bolt at the same time but you may not be able to get the bolt to release.
12. 

    MegaDusty56 says:

    February 26, 2012 at 5:52 pm

    Excellent video. I was taught to drive them in with a screwdriver as well.
    Thank you so much for the enlightenment : )
13. 

    FutureGreenLLC says:

    March 5, 2012 at 12:53 pm

    These are great videos. I just found your site while looking for how to install a particular kind of threaded insert. There happens to be one (metal insert) sitting next to your bolt in this video between 0:40 and 1:00. I am installing legs on a kids table, and I have some of those inserts to use in the table top. Do they just get tapped into a pilot hole in the bottom of the board, or would you recommend I just take them back and get the ones you used?
14. 

    RonaldWalters47 says:

    March 5, 2012 at 1:14 pm

    Those are T-Nuts and if you have room I would prefer them to the threaded inserts. The threaded inserts can tear out… just depends on the material and load being applied. The flange of the T-Nut goes on the backside of the board and the bolt would enter from the front. If it needs to be flat a slight relief pocket can be cut with a Forstner bit to recess the T-Nut Flange (see my video on Star Knobs — Homemade). I tap them in with a hammer and sometimes use a metal rod as a punch.
15. 

    fletch123 says:

    March 14, 2012 at 10:09 pm

    Nice video and just what I needed to know

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